It was 1991. Ruth Reichl, was the editor of the Los Angeles Times food section, and she was changing the culinary scene, mostly subtly but with a wake up bang directed at others. When she asked me to write an article on lard I was scared, perplexed, wary, but I welcomed the challenge and I let her lead me. She took me down a happy road.
She has revolutionized not just Mexican but Korean, Thai and many other unknown cuisines. She understands flavors and champions regional cuisines subtly to not offend the foamers. Of all the food critics I have known only Ruth and Craig Claiborne really kn ew and understood food and the chefs who created it.
Thank you Ruth, for keeping my mission alive.
So watch the video and get a kick out of it or really learn from it. Use it whenever you want that elusive, satisfying flavor in your cooking.
They’ll never know.